Saro-Gem Limited Edition Chrono Watch in 75 Ct. Sapphire Overlay
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This is a watch with a multitude of unusual and compelling features including two-tone case elements, diamond hour markers, a gold-flecked night sky dial, and a bracelet capped with patterned scratch-proof tiles. This watch, with its myriad design elements pulls everything together nicely.
The watch is a modern size (43 mm diameter, thus the model designation) and utilizes a bold steel water-resistant (to 50M) case with sapphire crystals front and back. The bracelet features a hidden butterfly clasp, solid 22 mm end-pieces, and several removable links. A smooth-running and accurate 25-jewel Valjoux 7750 Platinum versionthe industry standard for automatic chronographsprovides power. The dial features luminous paint for the hour markers and all the hands save that of the small seconds register. The date window is located where the 4:00 marker normally resides and it is nicely framed.
What makes this watch exceptional is a veritable shopping list of interesting features. The model pictured herein incorporates a pleasing blend of three colors: silver, blue and black. Beginning with the dial, and working out to case elements and then the bracelet, it is clear that the brands designers have taken their objective of creating a distinctive luxury chronograph seriously. The stunning dial is a deep enamel blue, to which gold dust is added to create a night sky effect. Each dial is therefore unique and is carefully baked and printed with finely textured silver lettering. Baguette settings hold the eight diamonds in place; each watch is also accompanied by an appraisal report from the International Gemological Institute which describes not only the watch but also the grade of the diamonds, including cut, color and clarity.
The case is hand-milled and the end-pieces of the bracelet are hand-milled, attached by soldering iron, and then baked to the case. All steel parts are INOX and the black finish on some components of this example is processed PVD. The case construction is modular and allows for gold or steel or color-coated parts such as the case back, chronograph pushers, and the narrow band between the bezel and case to be interchanged at assembly. SARO-Gems print and on-line catalogs show a multitude of options available within this model line. Water resistance is ensured by dual gasket rings at the stem and by precision-machined case parts and the entire construction was designed with ease of servicing in mind.
The most interesting element visually is perhaps the scratchproof sapphire tiles that sit atop the thin steel bracelet links. Making these sapphire plates in correct dimensions to fit the bracelet requires roughly 60 steps, and any gold or palladium is added in a vacuum. The example shown here includes inset stripes of 18k white gold whose crescent-moon motif is etched in a separate process. Finally, these tiles are applied with a special glue which can expand and contract long after being assembled--800 pounds of pull force won't remove a plate from the band. SARO-Gem rightly asserts that the resulting radiance and reflection give the appearance of mirror polish with the advantage of being virtually scratch-proof.
The elaborate construction of these components could falsely give the reader a sense that this is a bulky and uncomfortable watch; this is far from the truth. The bracelet is a mere 2.5 mm thick and it tapers in width from 22 mm at the case to 16 mm at the clasp. The watch itself is under 14 mm thick and utilizes a domed crystal and curves on the case sides, bezel and back to achieve an aesthetically very pleasing appearance of trimness. On this particular model, the dark dial and case components also add to the sense of compactness making this a watch easily worn even by watch enthusiasts whose wrists are not bulky. It is a svelte and sexy timepiece.
This is a distinctive timepiece, aimed at the connoisseur of gemstones and fine timepieces, as well as the watch lover who seeks something unlikely to be spotted on another mans wrist. The BuonGustos combination of stunning dial elements with high-tech construction and scratch-proof components make it unique among its peers in the luxury chronograph market.